Corner Hem

     In Me and My Sewing Machine, by Kate Haxell, she explains how to create a corner hem. She starts by saying, "the idea of having to produce a square, flat, mitered corner is one that sends many novice sewers pale, but it isn't a difficult technique to get right, you just need to be able to measure and press accurately" (Haxell 46).
So first to apply this technique I got a measuring tape for measuring and an iron for pressing. I then followed her steps. Her steps went from measuring out the fabric, cutting it, and then folding the hem over its self (Haxell 46).


The fabric then looked like this:

She then explains how to sew the two ends of the fabric to create a cornered look (Haxell 47).




Now for the last step she says to sew a straight line at the edge of the hem and then I will be done!  (Haxell 47)








I am going to apply this technique to my sewing, by creating clean hems for all the corners of my fabric. This will make my project look more professional and it will look cleaner. By applying this technique I can understand how seamstress created this corner hem.








Do you know what a hem is and why its used?






Haxell, Kate. Me and My Sewing Machine. Lafayette: C&T, 2010. Print.

Pinning

     In Me and My Sewing Machine, by Kate Haxell, she explains how to correctly pin fabric before sewing. For those of you that may not know why you pin, she starts by saying: one must "put pins in pieces of fabric to hold them together; to keep them from slipping" (Haxell 24). Now that she explained why, she explains how. First, match the edges of your fabric. Second, stick pins parallel to edges of fabric about 1/2 inch away from edges (Haxell 24). This was something I had always done differently. I used to put the pins in perpendicular to the edges. I now apply her tip to my sewing and I notice the pins don't get in the way unlike they would if I pinned my way.




Here is a picture of what pinning looks like:
First pin is how I used to do it. (White Pin)
Second pin is how its done using Kate Haxell's technique. (Yellow Pin)

Can anyone think of any other ideas why her way may be better than mine?

Haxell, Kate. Me and My Sewing Machine. Lafayette: C&T, 2010. Print.

A Space for Sewing

      In Me and My Sewing Machine, by Kate Haxell, she explains that "you are going to need a sturdy table, a comfortable, straight-back chair and an iron and ironing board close by" (Haxell 20). In my home I used to use a little rickety table in my room but now I am using her advice and moved to the table downstairs. The table downstairs correlates with her description: a big area to hold sewing machine and supplies (Haxell 20).  Nearby I also have an ironing board with an iron in my laundry room. This makes it easier to get too now that its closer. These are just some of her tips when it comes to making a space for sewing.


Here is a picture of my table and chair behind it: (Sorry it is sideways)

Does anyone have a space in their house that would fit the simple guidelines of Kate Haxell's sewing area?


Haxell, Kate. Me and My Sewing Machine. Lafayette: C&T, 2010. Print.

Back Stitching

     In Me and My Sewing Machine, by Kate Haxell, she explains that "you certainly don't need a detailed technical explanation of how all machines do everything, but some information is useful" (Haxell 10). After explaining this, she shows a detailed picture of a sewing machine showing some key important parts. One part is shown as a reverse stitch lever used for sewing backwards (Haxell 32). This turns out to be an important part when sewing a project because when finishing a seam, it will finish it professionally and more sturdy. This was useful towards sewing a bag because I backstitched the handles  which showed to be able to support a heavier bag than handles without finishing the seams with backstitching.

Now that you know what backstitching is for, can you think of a way to use this technique in real life?


Haxell, Kate. Me and My Sewing Machine. Lafayette: C&T, 2010. Print. 

Finishing Edges

     In Me and My Sewing Machine, by Kate Haxell, she explains how "most fabrics will fray to some degree, so the raw, cut edges of an open seam allowance need to be neatened - or finished as it's also called - to prevent them eventually fraying so far that the seam splits" (Haxell 32). She is trying to explain how I need to close the edges of my fabric by sewing it to prevent any tears. This is a useful tip I can apply to my sewing projects because it will give my projects a more professional look and make them last much longer.


     Kate later explains that the most commonly used stich to use is a zigzag stitch (Haxell 32). Based on what I know about zigzag stitching, I can say that it's more sturdy that just straight stitching. I can then infer that it will finish the seams tighter and more secure leading to a better chance of the project not fraying.


     I applied this tip to a current quilt I am working on sewing and it gave one of the squares in it a really nice professional looking edge. This square looked nicer than some of the other squares which appear to already be fraying.




Here is an example of what my squares looked like before I applied the technique:

And now here is an example of what my squares looked like after I applied to the technique:

Has anyone ever looked at their clothes or a blankets and noticed how nice and clean the edges looked sewn shut? This is because a seamstress has used this technique while in the making.








Haxell, Kate. Me and My Sewing Machine. Lafayette: C&T, 2010. Print.